Cooling off Uptown
Written by Jennifer Coleman    Bookmark and Share
Saturday, 26 July 2008 16:57
The colorful chalkboard menu on the wall behind the ice cream cases at Creole Creamery reads like a culinary education of New Orleans. Every day the Uptown shop serves a rotation of around 40 flavors, which often include Bananas Foster, Caramel Chicory Chocolate, Creole Cream Cheese, and Pop Rouge, along with more traditional flavors like Chocolate, Vanilla and Strawberry. When owner David Bergeron opened the Creamery in spring 2004, he had a clear idea of what type of ice cream shop he did and didn’t want to build. He wanted to continue the classic traditions he observed during the 10 years he scooped ice cream for Swensen’s in Metairie. He appreciated that the franchise operated like a 1950s era soda shop, serving sundaes and shakes in tall glasses. “I decided I really liked that whole vibe the place had,” he said. He even bought Swensen’s equipment when it closed. 

Located in the very first McKenzie’s bakery building, where many a beloved King Cake and Buttermilk Drop was once baked, Creole Creamery does look pretty classic. There’s a photo wall of ice cream-covered kids, some of whom you can watch grow up through the pictures. There are red booths, a counter and stools, and an outside bench that school kids and seniors spill past, quieted by the ice cream. 

What Bergeron didn’t want was to serve the same exact flavors for another ten years, or to have someone else telling him what flavors he could or couldn’t serve. He enlisted his Brother Martin high school band buddy Bryan Gilmore, who had also worked at Swenson’s, to be the Willy Wonka behind the shop’s smorgasbord of flavors and sundae menu. “He has no formal training, but he’s very creative in the kitchen,” said Bergeron. The flavors change as quickly as they’re eaten. The classic Chocolate, Vanilla and Strawberry, as well as Mint Chocolate Chip, Cookies and Cream, and Cafe au Lait flavors are always on the menu not because of demand, but because “an ice cream shop should always have these flavors,” he said. 

Creole Creamery’s ice cream is creamy and rich, and flavors tend to live up to their name – if the sign says Blue Cheese-Walnut, you taste the tang of the cheese as you crunch a nut. Many are inspired by restaurant meals, like the Candied Bacon and Cinnamon flavor, which is reminiscent of the praline bacon at Elizabeth’s restaurant in the Bywater. “Pretty much if you can think it, you can put it in there… I always tell people you can go buy boring at the grocery store across the street,” said Bergeron. Asked how the Creamery responds to culinary and countrywide trends, “Our menu would change as much as say any restaurant’s does. If you look at restaurants who have contemporary Creole food, they’re always evolving in some kind of way,” he said.Â